Fiji’s famous smile is slipping.

Despite the overwhelming beauty here, one can’t help but feel a sadder edge to the air. With the 2006 coup still unresolved, Fiji faces hard times.

Unemployment is on the rise. Crime too. For sale signs are appearing around town, as businesses, factories and resorts close down. As property owners apply for visas overseas. The coconut wireless, our local rumour mill, tells me The University of the South Pacific, tertiary educator to the islands, is investigating new premises offshore.

Speaking of education, a report released by Save the Children (Fiji), states 66% of those dropping out of school, do so for reasons associated with poverty. 35% of the country are struggling below the poverty line.

Meanwhile, the cost of living is soaring. As petrol hit a whopping $2.12 per litre this week, Mere, a garden labourer, is glum - she is now spending a 1/3 of her weekly wage just getting the bus to work. And Pete, father to 4 children, has to work 3 hours before he can afford a block of butter. Yes, grassroots wallets are feeling the pinch.

The future appears bleak. Stories of corruption are abound. And tourists, our major income earner, are awol. But who can blame them? A Jetstar bargain bound for Siem Reap, Ubud or Macau is all the more enticing when there isn’t coup in full swing.

Nevertheless as politicians argue, the beauty prevails. Our people do their best to get by. My childhood gang, all grown up and operating wonderful tourism businesses, are committed to making them work. The Fair Trade Company will be creating jobs, rather than taking them away. And best all, community kicks in and families look after one another, the village culture of sharing and laughter keeping souls afloat.

The smile isn’t gone yet.